Paris, France (June 2004)

Katie and I arrive in Paris to torrential downpours. Seriously. It was not quite the Paris I had imagined - the City of Light overcome by enormous curbside puddles and blustery winds that would turn your umbrella inside out every 100 yards. However, we decided to make the best of it, and explored as much as our soaked feet would allow us. We stayed in a cozy B&B in Montmartre, literally in the shadow of the amazing basilica Sacre Couer. We were a two minute walk from the Place du Tertre - the artists quarter, where you can walk through and around easels of Paris's scenic sights. There was a creperie on the corridor from Sacre Couer to the Place du Tertre, which had delicious crepes, both sweet and savory. My favorite was the crepe de pommes (apple) and nutella banana (hazelnut and chocolate spread + sliced bananas). Katie and I tried a savory crepe, it had something like egg, cheese, ham, and spinach in it. Definitely prefer the sweet ones, the savory kind reminded me of a not-so-great breakfast burrito. As we continued to explore the city, we found arrondisements we liked more than others. While the Champs Elysees is a must-see, the surrounding area is one giant tourist trap, food and souvenirs are double the price, if not more. We liked the 8th, the area around the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, there are a lot of great patisseries and coffee shops with character, especially on Rue Cler. Also worthwhile is San Germain, across the River Seine from the Louvre. There are an array of famous coffee shops to choose from, many of which once entertained the likes of Hemingway, Victor Hugo, and Voltaire. My favorite was Deux Magots - which has a long standing rivalry with its neighbor Cafe Flore (also good).

We also hit up a lot of the usual tourist attractions: the Louvre, Moulin Rouge, Notre Dame, one church I would highly recommend also on the Ile de la Cite is Sainte Chapelle. This church is a famous reliquary as well, home to the Crown of Thorns. The building itself is supported by a delicate framework, built so that you are hardly aware of the beams, making it feel as though you are completely surrounded in stained glass. It is definitely a very peaceful and spiritual space, well worth the 12 euro. So there you have it - even in the rain you can have a fabulous time, it's simply Paris!